Oh, China. Here we are at our last day together.
This morning I only had a few hours to get things together. We're leaving at Noon for the airport, so whatever I did today had to be close. So what does one do? Why, line up with the rest of the Chinese to see the Great Leader, the one and only Chairman Mao. Mao died back in 1976, but through careful preservation, it is still possible to line up and file past his carefully embalmed body to pay your final respects. I have to tell you, for being dead for almost 35 years, Mao doesn't look too bad, but he doesn't look too real either! It took about an hour and a half to complete this process. For hopefully the last time I got to experience Chinese line cutting and pushing (this is a hope against hopes - I still have to get through the airport). Security was really tight. No bags, no sunglasses, no cameras. I just took my passport and some money. After standing in line for about a half hour, the line began to slowly move, but consistently move, which was nice. The normally loud and boisterous Chinese fell deadly silent upon entering the Memorial Hall. There was a large marble statue of Mao in the room with an altar for putting white flowers on. Then, you moved slowly into the hall with Mao's body. You had to keep walking, but you did get pretty close to him. He was in a glass coffin, wearing a Maoist suit and covered with the Chinese flag. Then, you exited, and went right into a gift shop. God love the Chinese. There is always a gift shop.
I took the subway back to the hotel and finished packing, and am now killing time until it is time to go to the airport. This trip has been fantastic and a dream come true, but I am EXHAUSTED. I cannot wait to get home!!
So, for now, goodbye from China!
Location: Lobby, Jianguo Garden Hotel, Beijing
Tooth Update: Tooth is craving a steak. I can't say I blame it any.
Weather Update: A glorious day in Beijing. There's a blue sky! A blue sky!!!
Thursday, July 1, 2010
The Beijing Boogie
Last Day in Beijing
Today I got to sleep in!!! I got up at 8:00, and had a nice lazy breakfast before heading out to the Pearl Market. One of our tour leaders, Kimberly, had lived in China for several years, and she knew a jewelry dealer in the Pearl Market where we could get good prices on some jewelry. And, we did! I got some gorgeous pieces, and paid very little for it. The Pearl Market was crazy though! There were vendors all over the place, and they wanted you to buy from THEM! They would grab your elbow and pull you to their stand. It was such a pain, but I learned to tell them no pretty strongly and to jerk my arm away. It was pure and utter craziness!!
We went for lunch after that, where we had a cold noodle dish and some sour plum juice. It was good, but it was loud in there! But, it was definitely authentic! It was a fun last lunch in China, but let me tell you, I am tired of big group meals! I am definitely dining solo for a while when I get home!
After lunch Mona and I went back to the Pearl Market to finish up a couple of deals, to fight off a lot of vendors, and just to make sure we had bought everything we needed for home. Then, I persuaded Mona to go to the zoo with me because I HAD to see the panda bears. Yes, I have seen pandas before, but not in their native country, so I had to go. I had heard mixed things about the Beijing Zoo, such as that their exhibits are pretty bad with the exception of the pandas, so we decided to not go to any of the exhibits other than the panda bears. It was fun to see them! I was so glad about going to the zoo, and I had a great time!
My job finished in Beijing, we came back to the hotel and had a rest before heading out for one last meal in China. And what did I pick for my last meal? PIZZA HUT!!! Yeah, I know, what a choice, but as I have told you before, Pizza Hut in China is amazing. I am pretty burned out on Chinese food, and I really wanted one more of those rose lichee drinks!
Tonight's blog is being written on the third floor of our hotel, where Cindy, Shari and I were kicked off of a table (it sounds worse than what it is), so we are sitting on the floor listening to Chinese folk music being played in the lobby. Finally, a slow and relaxing, yet humorous way to end our last full day in China.
Location: Third floor, Jianguo Garden Hotel, Beijing
Tooth Update: Tooth is planning on making a full trip home, missing a little bit of temporary filling. It is also planning on packing a grain or two of rice in its gaping hole as a souvenir.
Weather Update: Rainy! I actually had to use an umbrella - what?!?! But it cleared up the air, and was very nice.
Today I got to sleep in!!! I got up at 8:00, and had a nice lazy breakfast before heading out to the Pearl Market. One of our tour leaders, Kimberly, had lived in China for several years, and she knew a jewelry dealer in the Pearl Market where we could get good prices on some jewelry. And, we did! I got some gorgeous pieces, and paid very little for it. The Pearl Market was crazy though! There were vendors all over the place, and they wanted you to buy from THEM! They would grab your elbow and pull you to their stand. It was such a pain, but I learned to tell them no pretty strongly and to jerk my arm away. It was pure and utter craziness!!
We went for lunch after that, where we had a cold noodle dish and some sour plum juice. It was good, but it was loud in there! But, it was definitely authentic! It was a fun last lunch in China, but let me tell you, I am tired of big group meals! I am definitely dining solo for a while when I get home!
After lunch Mona and I went back to the Pearl Market to finish up a couple of deals, to fight off a lot of vendors, and just to make sure we had bought everything we needed for home. Then, I persuaded Mona to go to the zoo with me because I HAD to see the panda bears. Yes, I have seen pandas before, but not in their native country, so I had to go. I had heard mixed things about the Beijing Zoo, such as that their exhibits are pretty bad with the exception of the pandas, so we decided to not go to any of the exhibits other than the panda bears. It was fun to see them! I was so glad about going to the zoo, and I had a great time!
My job finished in Beijing, we came back to the hotel and had a rest before heading out for one last meal in China. And what did I pick for my last meal? PIZZA HUT!!! Yeah, I know, what a choice, but as I have told you before, Pizza Hut in China is amazing. I am pretty burned out on Chinese food, and I really wanted one more of those rose lichee drinks!
Tonight's blog is being written on the third floor of our hotel, where Cindy, Shari and I were kicked off of a table (it sounds worse than what it is), so we are sitting on the floor listening to Chinese folk music being played in the lobby. Finally, a slow and relaxing, yet humorous way to end our last full day in China.
Location: Third floor, Jianguo Garden Hotel, Beijing
Tooth Update: Tooth is planning on making a full trip home, missing a little bit of temporary filling. It is also planning on packing a grain or two of rice in its gaping hole as a souvenir.
Weather Update: Rainy! I actually had to use an umbrella - what?!?! But it cleared up the air, and was very nice.
Beijing, Baby!
Wednesday, June 30
Today was a big day of the trip - in fact, one might even call it a great day, because today was the day that we visited the most famous of China's many historical places - the Great Wall. Of course, with all things, we couldn't go straight to the Wall - we had a factory visit. In fact, this would be the first of three, count 'em, three factory tours that we would make today. If there is anything tour companies love more than getting your money for the tour (which I didn't pay - yay!), it's dropping you off in a factory so that your local guide can get a commission from you buying stuff. Our fist stop today was at a jade factory. The factory consisted of watching a guy behind a piece of glass carving some jade. Yawn. Of course, there was the requisite shop at the end. The pieces were beautiful, but outrageous in their prices. I felt that I could get a better deal elsewhere, so I didn't buy anything there.
We finally got to the Great Wall. The day was hazy, which made for some bad photography, but I was at the Great Wall! The Great Wall! It was AMAZING!!! I climbed as high as I could, breaking out in a full sweat on the way with my knees begging for mercy, but I climbed that wall!! I even bought a shirt to prove it. To top that, I dressed up as a Chinese empress and had my picture taken because, well, that's what I do. Climbing the Great Wall was definitely what I needed to get my batteries recharged. I had been feeling down and a little disgusted at how some things were going, but seeing something as magnificent as that Wall, and being able to climb around on it, is an experience that I will never forget. I am so glad that I had the opportunity to go there. Great Wall indeed.
Our next stop was - you guessed it - Factory Tour #2!! Woo hoo! This one was kind of interesting though. It was a cloisonne factory, and it actually looked like a factory instead of the cheesy setups that we have experienced up to this point. See the process of making cloisonne was very interesting, and very involved, which explains why the prices were out of control. Some of the pieces were truly amazing, but I would have had to sell my liver or a kidney to buy them, so they remain on the shelves of the factory showroom for others to enjoy. Sigh. Our lunch was at the factory, another routine Chinese meal, this time complete with French fries! When we got done, we had even more time to shop. Woo. Hoo. I think that I am getting tired of shopping. We keep seeing the same things for sale over and over. In the factory shops, you can't bargain, so it just isn't fun to shop there.
After this second factory tour of the day, we headed to the Ming Tombs. Thirteen of the sixteen emperors from the Ming Dynasty are buried here. We walked along the ceremonial path to the tombs. Each side had matching pairs of stone animals and court officials to watch over the emperor in the afterlife and to pay homage to him. The walkway was shaded with willow trees and a nice breeze was blowing, and most of all, the path was on flat ground, so it was really an enjoyable experience. I was really looking forward to the tombs area. Three of the tombs are open for tourists to have a peek inside (there are no bodies there - those were looted out long ago), but our local guide told us that there was nothing to see as the tombs had been burned out. WRONG. I know good and well that you can go into these tombs, because many guidebooks have told us so. But, we had Factory Tour #3 coming up, and time was getting away from us, and I truly believe that she wanted us to get to the factory because she gets a commission anytime we buy something on these factory tours. Needless to say, I was pretty put out, as were many others, but there really wasn't anything that we could do about it except pledge to not buy anything at the next stop. Not that I would have anyway...
Our next stop was a Chinese Herbal Institute. Our guidebook (Lonely Planet - outstanding) said specifically to avoid any tours that would take you to herbal institutes that would give you free check-ups and then try to sell you stuff. And that is exactly where our tour company took us. Talk about annoying. Again, there was nothing we could do, and I knew that my doctor (Hi, John!) would kick my rear end if I bought anything there, so I sat back and minded my own business. What a scam. It was pretty upsetting to be wasting time there when I could have been experiencing history. Only one person in our group bought anything. From what I hear the prices were outrageous, but I can't confirm that.
Our last official function of the day, and our last official of the trip, was to have our farewell banquet. We had it in the restaurant downstairs where we normally have breakfast. This time though, instead of breakfast food, was a fantastic East/West buffet. Prime rib! Salad at dinner instead of breakfast! Bread! And we all went crazy over the desserts, which proved to be fatal for many of us as we aren't used to sweets (the Chinese don't eat a lot of sweets, and when they do, it's frankly not that good, and usually involves red bean paste). Many upset stomachs ended the night.
Faced with such a problem, Mona, Cindy, Shari and I decided to go out for a walk. We were looking for the Silk Market, but settled for Starbucks. Sometimes it's the little things that make you happy.
Location: Jianguo Garden Hotel, Beijing
Tooth Update: Held onto a piece of rice for most of the day and was really annoying. It must be punished.
Weather Update: Overcast but humid humid humid. Big hair day!
Tuesday, June 29
Today was certainly a busy day, and one that showed me that I am definitely more tired than I thought. If you know me well, you know that the more tired I get, the crankier I get. Let me explain.
Our morning started with a trip to another UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Temple of Heaven. The Temple of Heaven is the site where the emperor of China gave thanks to the gods for good harvests and also prayed for good harvests. The park surrounding the area is quite busy in the morning with mostly senior citizens practicing their exercises. There were all kinds of activities going on! We saw dancing lessons, badminton, a kind of human ring toss (your partner would thrown large round rings at you, and you would catch them around your neck), and of course, tai chi. There are several different types of tai chi that were practiced - one with just hands, one with paddles and a ball, and another with a sword. Tai chi is very peaceful and beautiful to watch, and we had the opportunity to practice with a tai chi master. It was kind of hard to see her (for me, anyway - that tree in front of me may have been to blame), but it was very cool in the park, so it was enjoyable. I was itching to get up to the Temple of Heaven though, which was on top of the hill overlooking the park. I was afraid that we were spending too much time in the park to allow us ample time to see things in the Temple area, and I was unfortunately right. We got about 15 minutes to explore the area, which was extremely frustrating. Several of the group walked off while our guide was speaking to go look at more things before we were released out on our own, and I can't say that I blame them. If I wasn't so insistent on following the rules, and if I hadn't done something similar yesterday, I would have done it myself. It was good that I didn't though as those who left were eventually spoken to about leaving the group.
The next stop was a lot of fun, but I am still worrying about my poor rickshaw driver. We had a tour of a traditional Beijing hutong by rickshaw. A rickshaw is simply a cart that was traditionally pulled by a man on foot. Now, they are pulled by bicycle. Mona and I were in a rickshaw together, and we worried about our poor rickshaw driver having to power the rickshaw with us on it, but this guy had calves of steel and it didn't seem to bother him. A hutong is a traditional housing area in Beijing. It is a collection of single story structures organized around a square courtyard. These courtyards date back hundreds of years, and they are in danger of disappearing in Beijing as the city continues to develop. Luckily, the city government has stepped in to protect these structures. There were many shopping areas in the hutongs, from actual stores to people on the street, and of course many of us took part in the traditional bargaining process. My favorite part of the hutong experience was lunch. We ate at a resident's house, where a nice and simple lunch was prepared for us. The food was so flavorful, and was really enjoyable. IT was a relaxing change of pace.
After lunch we headed to the Summer Palace. The Summer Palace was the retreat of the Chinese imperial family, and is most directly connected with Cixi, the Dowager Empress of China who is most commonly known in China as the Dragon Lady. Needless to say, she is not very well liked or respected in China today! Cixi largely controlled the later years of the Qing Dynasty in China through her ability to act shrewdly and decisively when it came to serving as regent for her son, then her nephew, and then another family member, who eventually became the last emperor of China, Pu Yi. Cixi is notorious for many reasons in China, but one that sticks out dramatically is the amount of money that she spent on the Summer Palace to renovate it to fit her tastes. This even included the construction of a large (non-floating) marble barge that was supposedly built with money that was originally appropriated for the building and maintenance of China's navy. Our tour at the Summer Palace started in the residential courtyards, including the one were Cixi's son, the Emperor, was imprisoned so that Cixi could pull the strings of government (see? I told you that she was controversial)! We even saw Cixi's bedroom and the courtyard of her chief eunuch. Eunuchs are court servants. They are males who have had certain body parts removed so that they can never father children, thus removing them as a threat to the throne. We also walked along the covered pavilion that was on the bank of the lake before taking a boat tour. The most aggravating part of the trip to the Summer Palace was that we didn't get to see the marble barge. I am not sure why this happened, but it was definitely frustrating. The barge is important because its construction left the navy in shambles, thus allowing China to be weak. Somehow our trip has started to sacrifice historical experiences. It's a good thing that there is a free day coming up so that I can possibly go back to see these things!
Our next stop was to view the Olympic Park. We saw the Bird's Nest and the Water Cube, as well as the broadcasting area. We didn't tour the areas, but the bus stopped so that we could step out and get a good picture.
Dinner tonight was a disaster. This is where I discovered that I am emotionally and physically exhausted. Our dinner was a Mongolian hot pot. This style dates back to the time of Genghis Khan and the Mongolian army. The Mongols were known for eating large elaborate meals, but at one point, the Great Khan (that's Genghis) decided that there wasn't time for an elaborate feast - the army needed to move NOW. The chef was at a loss, so he told the soldiers to hold their helmets upside down, which he filled with boiling water, and then threw in the meat and vegetables. Voila. Instant meal. The problem at the restaurant, however, was that we didn't have our own helmet. Instead, we had a large copper hot pot in the center of a table set for 10. You had to stand up to cook your food. Well, you've heard the expression of too many cooks in the kitchen, right? Same problem here. People kept throwing in food without waiting for the food in the pot to cook, so you weren't getting consistently cooked food. I was so irritable about this! I finally spoke up - loudly, I guess, as I do when I am angry - and asked why we couldn't throw stuff in, wait for it to cook, then get it all out and put more in. Richard agreed with me. I think it angered some people, but I didn't care. I barely got any food as it was because people were being very piggy about getting food. Dave got mad enough about it that he left and went to the McDonald's down the street. It was a very uncivilized meal. I was steaming. When we finally got back to the hotel, Mona and I went to the Pizza Hut down the street and had a very civilized meal of cheese pizza and that amazing rose lychee drink. It's a shame that I didn't enjoy the hot pot meal, but people are just getting crazy. Everyone is tired, and I think that we are all ready to go home. Tomorrow is a big day, though. We'll be visiting the Great Wall. Hopefully we will have enough time to fully enjoy it, and our meals will be more civilized!
Before you comment though - I am having a great time, and I realize that I am in the middle of a fantastic opportunity. But, three weeks is a long time to travel, and I am blogging the feelings that I am experiencing. Documenting my frustration and exhaustion is important to chronicle the effects of a long trip to China! Thanks!
Location: Jianguo Garden Hotel, Beijing
Tooth Update: Tooth and I saw a dentist office today, and felt no desire to go inside! Victory!
Weather Update: Hot and a little humid. Feels like home!
Monday, June 28
Today started VERY early. I got up at 4:30 to prepare for our departure from Xi'an at 5:40. Oh, these early mornings are killer! We had breakfast on the bus again since we were up WAY before breakfast was served in the hotel restaurant. Today was our last domestic flight in China, and my string of having all window seats on every flight was broken - I got a middle seat. Middle seats are not cool. You never seem to have enough space and you end up being the go-between between the person with the window seat and the flight attendant. Kind of annoying, but I got some sleep so it wasn't that bad.
We were all exhausted, so our guide had luckily checked us in early, and we had about an hour to rest in our rooms before we started our day. That was a fantastic move, because we really needed it! Everybody was cranky, and a short nap was definitely in order. I am glad that we got that chance. After the rest period, we went to lunch, which was one of the famous foods of Beijing, Peking Roast Duck. You may be asking what the difference is between the uses of Beijing and Peking, as both names describe the same city. Peking uses the old translation, while Beijing is much more modern. The word "bei" means "northern" and "jing" means "capital." Beijing is simply the Northern Capital. Peking is used today to denote anything historic or traditional. Hence, Peking duck. Peking duck is pretty good, but not something I would eat all of the time. Luckily, Beijingers don't eat it all of the time either - it is a luxury.
After lunch, we headed to Tian'anmen Square and the Forbidden City. We know Tian'anmen Square for the protests staged there several years ago. In China, it's just the largest square, where one can find the People's Congress building, the State Museum, and of course, Mao's Mausoleum (which I have referred to as the Mao-soleum for most of the trip). Here is where you can find the famous portrait of Mao that hangs over the square from the Tian'anmen Gate, one of the main gateways to the Forbidden City. I took tons of pictures, and then got to go into one of the highlights of the trip for me.
I have wanted to go to the Forbidden City (officially called "The Palace Museum") since I saw "The Last Emperor" many years ago. That movie, which I strongly recommend that you watch, is about the last emperor of China, Pu Yi. He had a very sad life, though he was emperor. He eventually had to give up his throne, leave the Forbidden City which he had never before been allowed to leave, became the puppet emperor of Manchukuo (the Japanese-occupied state of Manchuria), wind up in prison, and then die a regular Chinese. The movie is one of the very few, if not only, Western movies to be filmed in the Forbidden City, and I was so excited to be able to walk through the palace. Of course, I could have spent hours there, but I was really pressed for time. Pesky group tours! I did manage to get to a gift shop, which was very important for me as I wanted a book on the Forbidden City. Although I wish I could have had hours more time there, it was definitely a highlight for me.
Of course, there was a ton of haggling with vendors outside the gates. You name it, you could have bought it there. Oodles of fun. I hope that Wal-Mart is ready for me to come back and try to bargain with them!
We had another traditional Chinese meal, and then everyone looked about ready to crash. It was definitely time to get some sleep. I was out by about 9:30 or so. I've never had a better night's sleep!
Location: Jianguo Garden Hotel, Beijing
Tooth Update: It's still in my mouth without pain, so that must be good.
Weather Update: Oh, it's a little warm, and a little humid! I miss Xi'an's weather already!!!
Today was a big day of the trip - in fact, one might even call it a great day, because today was the day that we visited the most famous of China's many historical places - the Great Wall. Of course, with all things, we couldn't go straight to the Wall - we had a factory visit. In fact, this would be the first of three, count 'em, three factory tours that we would make today. If there is anything tour companies love more than getting your money for the tour (which I didn't pay - yay!), it's dropping you off in a factory so that your local guide can get a commission from you buying stuff. Our fist stop today was at a jade factory. The factory consisted of watching a guy behind a piece of glass carving some jade. Yawn. Of course, there was the requisite shop at the end. The pieces were beautiful, but outrageous in their prices. I felt that I could get a better deal elsewhere, so I didn't buy anything there.
We finally got to the Great Wall. The day was hazy, which made for some bad photography, but I was at the Great Wall! The Great Wall! It was AMAZING!!! I climbed as high as I could, breaking out in a full sweat on the way with my knees begging for mercy, but I climbed that wall!! I even bought a shirt to prove it. To top that, I dressed up as a Chinese empress and had my picture taken because, well, that's what I do. Climbing the Great Wall was definitely what I needed to get my batteries recharged. I had been feeling down and a little disgusted at how some things were going, but seeing something as magnificent as that Wall, and being able to climb around on it, is an experience that I will never forget. I am so glad that I had the opportunity to go there. Great Wall indeed.
Our next stop was - you guessed it - Factory Tour #2!! Woo hoo! This one was kind of interesting though. It was a cloisonne factory, and it actually looked like a factory instead of the cheesy setups that we have experienced up to this point. See the process of making cloisonne was very interesting, and very involved, which explains why the prices were out of control. Some of the pieces were truly amazing, but I would have had to sell my liver or a kidney to buy them, so they remain on the shelves of the factory showroom for others to enjoy. Sigh. Our lunch was at the factory, another routine Chinese meal, this time complete with French fries! When we got done, we had even more time to shop. Woo. Hoo. I think that I am getting tired of shopping. We keep seeing the same things for sale over and over. In the factory shops, you can't bargain, so it just isn't fun to shop there.
After this second factory tour of the day, we headed to the Ming Tombs. Thirteen of the sixteen emperors from the Ming Dynasty are buried here. We walked along the ceremonial path to the tombs. Each side had matching pairs of stone animals and court officials to watch over the emperor in the afterlife and to pay homage to him. The walkway was shaded with willow trees and a nice breeze was blowing, and most of all, the path was on flat ground, so it was really an enjoyable experience. I was really looking forward to the tombs area. Three of the tombs are open for tourists to have a peek inside (there are no bodies there - those were looted out long ago), but our local guide told us that there was nothing to see as the tombs had been burned out. WRONG. I know good and well that you can go into these tombs, because many guidebooks have told us so. But, we had Factory Tour #3 coming up, and time was getting away from us, and I truly believe that she wanted us to get to the factory because she gets a commission anytime we buy something on these factory tours. Needless to say, I was pretty put out, as were many others, but there really wasn't anything that we could do about it except pledge to not buy anything at the next stop. Not that I would have anyway...
Our next stop was a Chinese Herbal Institute. Our guidebook (Lonely Planet - outstanding) said specifically to avoid any tours that would take you to herbal institutes that would give you free check-ups and then try to sell you stuff. And that is exactly where our tour company took us. Talk about annoying. Again, there was nothing we could do, and I knew that my doctor (Hi, John!) would kick my rear end if I bought anything there, so I sat back and minded my own business. What a scam. It was pretty upsetting to be wasting time there when I could have been experiencing history. Only one person in our group bought anything. From what I hear the prices were outrageous, but I can't confirm that.
Our last official function of the day, and our last official of the trip, was to have our farewell banquet. We had it in the restaurant downstairs where we normally have breakfast. This time though, instead of breakfast food, was a fantastic East/West buffet. Prime rib! Salad at dinner instead of breakfast! Bread! And we all went crazy over the desserts, which proved to be fatal for many of us as we aren't used to sweets (the Chinese don't eat a lot of sweets, and when they do, it's frankly not that good, and usually involves red bean paste). Many upset stomachs ended the night.
Faced with such a problem, Mona, Cindy, Shari and I decided to go out for a walk. We were looking for the Silk Market, but settled for Starbucks. Sometimes it's the little things that make you happy.
Location: Jianguo Garden Hotel, Beijing
Tooth Update: Held onto a piece of rice for most of the day and was really annoying. It must be punished.
Weather Update: Overcast but humid humid humid. Big hair day!
Tuesday, June 29
Today was certainly a busy day, and one that showed me that I am definitely more tired than I thought. If you know me well, you know that the more tired I get, the crankier I get. Let me explain.
Our morning started with a trip to another UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Temple of Heaven. The Temple of Heaven is the site where the emperor of China gave thanks to the gods for good harvests and also prayed for good harvests. The park surrounding the area is quite busy in the morning with mostly senior citizens practicing their exercises. There were all kinds of activities going on! We saw dancing lessons, badminton, a kind of human ring toss (your partner would thrown large round rings at you, and you would catch them around your neck), and of course, tai chi. There are several different types of tai chi that were practiced - one with just hands, one with paddles and a ball, and another with a sword. Tai chi is very peaceful and beautiful to watch, and we had the opportunity to practice with a tai chi master. It was kind of hard to see her (for me, anyway - that tree in front of me may have been to blame), but it was very cool in the park, so it was enjoyable. I was itching to get up to the Temple of Heaven though, which was on top of the hill overlooking the park. I was afraid that we were spending too much time in the park to allow us ample time to see things in the Temple area, and I was unfortunately right. We got about 15 minutes to explore the area, which was extremely frustrating. Several of the group walked off while our guide was speaking to go look at more things before we were released out on our own, and I can't say that I blame them. If I wasn't so insistent on following the rules, and if I hadn't done something similar yesterday, I would have done it myself. It was good that I didn't though as those who left were eventually spoken to about leaving the group.
The next stop was a lot of fun, but I am still worrying about my poor rickshaw driver. We had a tour of a traditional Beijing hutong by rickshaw. A rickshaw is simply a cart that was traditionally pulled by a man on foot. Now, they are pulled by bicycle. Mona and I were in a rickshaw together, and we worried about our poor rickshaw driver having to power the rickshaw with us on it, but this guy had calves of steel and it didn't seem to bother him. A hutong is a traditional housing area in Beijing. It is a collection of single story structures organized around a square courtyard. These courtyards date back hundreds of years, and they are in danger of disappearing in Beijing as the city continues to develop. Luckily, the city government has stepped in to protect these structures. There were many shopping areas in the hutongs, from actual stores to people on the street, and of course many of us took part in the traditional bargaining process. My favorite part of the hutong experience was lunch. We ate at a resident's house, where a nice and simple lunch was prepared for us. The food was so flavorful, and was really enjoyable. IT was a relaxing change of pace.
After lunch we headed to the Summer Palace. The Summer Palace was the retreat of the Chinese imperial family, and is most directly connected with Cixi, the Dowager Empress of China who is most commonly known in China as the Dragon Lady. Needless to say, she is not very well liked or respected in China today! Cixi largely controlled the later years of the Qing Dynasty in China through her ability to act shrewdly and decisively when it came to serving as regent for her son, then her nephew, and then another family member, who eventually became the last emperor of China, Pu Yi. Cixi is notorious for many reasons in China, but one that sticks out dramatically is the amount of money that she spent on the Summer Palace to renovate it to fit her tastes. This even included the construction of a large (non-floating) marble barge that was supposedly built with money that was originally appropriated for the building and maintenance of China's navy. Our tour at the Summer Palace started in the residential courtyards, including the one were Cixi's son, the Emperor, was imprisoned so that Cixi could pull the strings of government (see? I told you that she was controversial)! We even saw Cixi's bedroom and the courtyard of her chief eunuch. Eunuchs are court servants. They are males who have had certain body parts removed so that they can never father children, thus removing them as a threat to the throne. We also walked along the covered pavilion that was on the bank of the lake before taking a boat tour. The most aggravating part of the trip to the Summer Palace was that we didn't get to see the marble barge. I am not sure why this happened, but it was definitely frustrating. The barge is important because its construction left the navy in shambles, thus allowing China to be weak. Somehow our trip has started to sacrifice historical experiences. It's a good thing that there is a free day coming up so that I can possibly go back to see these things!
Our next stop was to view the Olympic Park. We saw the Bird's Nest and the Water Cube, as well as the broadcasting area. We didn't tour the areas, but the bus stopped so that we could step out and get a good picture.
Dinner tonight was a disaster. This is where I discovered that I am emotionally and physically exhausted. Our dinner was a Mongolian hot pot. This style dates back to the time of Genghis Khan and the Mongolian army. The Mongols were known for eating large elaborate meals, but at one point, the Great Khan (that's Genghis) decided that there wasn't time for an elaborate feast - the army needed to move NOW. The chef was at a loss, so he told the soldiers to hold their helmets upside down, which he filled with boiling water, and then threw in the meat and vegetables. Voila. Instant meal. The problem at the restaurant, however, was that we didn't have our own helmet. Instead, we had a large copper hot pot in the center of a table set for 10. You had to stand up to cook your food. Well, you've heard the expression of too many cooks in the kitchen, right? Same problem here. People kept throwing in food without waiting for the food in the pot to cook, so you weren't getting consistently cooked food. I was so irritable about this! I finally spoke up - loudly, I guess, as I do when I am angry - and asked why we couldn't throw stuff in, wait for it to cook, then get it all out and put more in. Richard agreed with me. I think it angered some people, but I didn't care. I barely got any food as it was because people were being very piggy about getting food. Dave got mad enough about it that he left and went to the McDonald's down the street. It was a very uncivilized meal. I was steaming. When we finally got back to the hotel, Mona and I went to the Pizza Hut down the street and had a very civilized meal of cheese pizza and that amazing rose lychee drink. It's a shame that I didn't enjoy the hot pot meal, but people are just getting crazy. Everyone is tired, and I think that we are all ready to go home. Tomorrow is a big day, though. We'll be visiting the Great Wall. Hopefully we will have enough time to fully enjoy it, and our meals will be more civilized!
Before you comment though - I am having a great time, and I realize that I am in the middle of a fantastic opportunity. But, three weeks is a long time to travel, and I am blogging the feelings that I am experiencing. Documenting my frustration and exhaustion is important to chronicle the effects of a long trip to China! Thanks!
Location: Jianguo Garden Hotel, Beijing
Tooth Update: Tooth and I saw a dentist office today, and felt no desire to go inside! Victory!
Weather Update: Hot and a little humid. Feels like home!
Monday, June 28
Today started VERY early. I got up at 4:30 to prepare for our departure from Xi'an at 5:40. Oh, these early mornings are killer! We had breakfast on the bus again since we were up WAY before breakfast was served in the hotel restaurant. Today was our last domestic flight in China, and my string of having all window seats on every flight was broken - I got a middle seat. Middle seats are not cool. You never seem to have enough space and you end up being the go-between between the person with the window seat and the flight attendant. Kind of annoying, but I got some sleep so it wasn't that bad.
We were all exhausted, so our guide had luckily checked us in early, and we had about an hour to rest in our rooms before we started our day. That was a fantastic move, because we really needed it! Everybody was cranky, and a short nap was definitely in order. I am glad that we got that chance. After the rest period, we went to lunch, which was one of the famous foods of Beijing, Peking Roast Duck. You may be asking what the difference is between the uses of Beijing and Peking, as both names describe the same city. Peking uses the old translation, while Beijing is much more modern. The word "bei" means "northern" and "jing" means "capital." Beijing is simply the Northern Capital. Peking is used today to denote anything historic or traditional. Hence, Peking duck. Peking duck is pretty good, but not something I would eat all of the time. Luckily, Beijingers don't eat it all of the time either - it is a luxury.
After lunch, we headed to Tian'anmen Square and the Forbidden City. We know Tian'anmen Square for the protests staged there several years ago. In China, it's just the largest square, where one can find the People's Congress building, the State Museum, and of course, Mao's Mausoleum (which I have referred to as the Mao-soleum for most of the trip). Here is where you can find the famous portrait of Mao that hangs over the square from the Tian'anmen Gate, one of the main gateways to the Forbidden City. I took tons of pictures, and then got to go into one of the highlights of the trip for me.
I have wanted to go to the Forbidden City (officially called "The Palace Museum") since I saw "The Last Emperor" many years ago. That movie, which I strongly recommend that you watch, is about the last emperor of China, Pu Yi. He had a very sad life, though he was emperor. He eventually had to give up his throne, leave the Forbidden City which he had never before been allowed to leave, became the puppet emperor of Manchukuo (the Japanese-occupied state of Manchuria), wind up in prison, and then die a regular Chinese. The movie is one of the very few, if not only, Western movies to be filmed in the Forbidden City, and I was so excited to be able to walk through the palace. Of course, I could have spent hours there, but I was really pressed for time. Pesky group tours! I did manage to get to a gift shop, which was very important for me as I wanted a book on the Forbidden City. Although I wish I could have had hours more time there, it was definitely a highlight for me.
Of course, there was a ton of haggling with vendors outside the gates. You name it, you could have bought it there. Oodles of fun. I hope that Wal-Mart is ready for me to come back and try to bargain with them!
We had another traditional Chinese meal, and then everyone looked about ready to crash. It was definitely time to get some sleep. I was out by about 9:30 or so. I've never had a better night's sleep!
Location: Jianguo Garden Hotel, Beijing
Tooth Update: It's still in my mouth without pain, so that must be good.
Weather Update: Oh, it's a little warm, and a little humid! I miss Xi'an's weather already!!!
Sunday, June 27, 2010
I really am not kidding about moving here...
So today was another wonderful day in Xi'an. We started the day off at the Shaanxi Province History Museum. It is an extremely nice museum, considered to be one of the best museums in China - in fact, I have heard that it is one of the four best museums in the country! It truly was a great place, except for the multitude of Chinese tourists in the place! The Chinese are kind of funny when they travel in groups. If you happen to be taking a picture of something, the odds of a Chinese bumping you or jumping in front of your camera to get a closer look at whatever you are trying to take a picture of are VERY high. So, it can be really annoying. As long as you can work through it, you're okay.
The second stop was to the Grand Mosque. This mosque dates back to the 700s, and survived the Cultural Revolution by some quick talking by the mosque's imam. (For future reference - the Cultural Revolution is when Mao made an attempt to purge the country of anything that violated his principles. A very scary time in Chinese history. Anything religious was just one of his many targets). We weren't allowed to go inside the prayer hall, but as Mona is Muslim, she was allowed in, and she had a very nice experience. She was able to talk to the imam, and afterwards we had a FANTASTIC meal. For one, it was very cheap, and two, it tasted amazing. It was a mutton soup, and it tasted like Stove Top stuffing soup. I am not kidding, it was phenomenal. After the lunch, we wandered through the Muslim Quarter for more shopping, and then made a trip to the Daoist temple, the Temple of the Eight Immortals.
Some of us came back to the hotel early and headed back across the street for another killer foot massage. I think I may have grown addicted. Luckily for me, we are leaving Xi'an bright and early in the morning, so my foot massage addiction will come to an end. You can get foot massages throughout China, Beijing included (our next stop), but apparently Xi'an has quite the reputation for foot massages. Let me tell you, it is well warranted.
Tomorrow morning is another early wake-up call to get ready to fly to our final stop - Beijing. I have always wanted to see the Forbidden City and the Great Wall, and feel lucky and overjoyed to have this experience coming up.
For future reference - I am really not planning on moving to Xi'an. But that mutton soup and the foot massages are enough to convert just about anyone!
Location: Titan Times Hotel, Xi'an
Tooth Update: Will miss dumplings and mutton soup.
Weather Update: A little hotter today, but still very nice!
The second stop was to the Grand Mosque. This mosque dates back to the 700s, and survived the Cultural Revolution by some quick talking by the mosque's imam. (For future reference - the Cultural Revolution is when Mao made an attempt to purge the country of anything that violated his principles. A very scary time in Chinese history. Anything religious was just one of his many targets). We weren't allowed to go inside the prayer hall, but as Mona is Muslim, she was allowed in, and she had a very nice experience. She was able to talk to the imam, and afterwards we had a FANTASTIC meal. For one, it was very cheap, and two, it tasted amazing. It was a mutton soup, and it tasted like Stove Top stuffing soup. I am not kidding, it was phenomenal. After the lunch, we wandered through the Muslim Quarter for more shopping, and then made a trip to the Daoist temple, the Temple of the Eight Immortals.
Some of us came back to the hotel early and headed back across the street for another killer foot massage. I think I may have grown addicted. Luckily for me, we are leaving Xi'an bright and early in the morning, so my foot massage addiction will come to an end. You can get foot massages throughout China, Beijing included (our next stop), but apparently Xi'an has quite the reputation for foot massages. Let me tell you, it is well warranted.
Tomorrow morning is another early wake-up call to get ready to fly to our final stop - Beijing. I have always wanted to see the Forbidden City and the Great Wall, and feel lucky and overjoyed to have this experience coming up.
For future reference - I am really not planning on moving to Xi'an. But that mutton soup and the foot massages are enough to convert just about anyone!
Location: Titan Times Hotel, Xi'an
Tooth Update: Will miss dumplings and mutton soup.
Weather Update: A little hotter today, but still very nice!
Saturday, June 26, 2010
Can I Move to Xi'an?
Saturday, June 26
This has been my favorite day of the trip so far. I think I may move to Xi'an if tomorrow is anything like this. I am not kidding - this place is amazing. People who come to China without visiting Xi'an need to have their heads examined.
We started our day at 8:30. My stomach was upset this morning, and I was worried about it affecting the other parts of my day, so I had a very light breakfast and a couple Pepto Bismol tablets. It was tasty and refreshing! Our first stop was the Big Wild Goose Pagoda. It was originally built during the Tang Dynasty, around 652 AD. It was very peaceful, and there was a light rain falling, which just added to the atmosphere. It was nice to be able to walk around and check out the many structures inside the temple. It was a thousand times more peaceful than the Jade Buddha Temple that we visited in Shanghai.
As much fun as the Big Wild Goose Pagoda was, I couldn't wait to get on the road to our final destination of the day - the Terra Cotta Army. But, there were many side trips along the way. First we had to visit another factory. This one made reproductions of the terra cotta soldiers. Honestly, these factory visits are getting out of hand. I refuse to believe that a factory consists of four ladies working by themselves. Where's the sweat shop? It's really just a lead in for the multitude of shopping experiences at the end of the "factory tour." Many of us ended up on the bus early in a bit of silent protest! Mom, I was one of them! Can you believe I got out of there without buying anything?!?! Amazing!!
Lunch was next. This was interesting, to say the least. Right outside the restaurant was a replica of the Great Pyramid in Egypt with the Sphinx right beside it. The draw of this lunch was that we were going to have a noodle making performance. Pretty cool! WRONG. That lasted approximately 30 seconds, after which they gave a sales pitch for the noodles - 3 yuan a bowl. Seriously? Anyway, I didn't get any noodles because there was more than enough food on the table. After that we visited a Chinese family's home. This was definitely not a tourist stop. This family has a house and then behind it, rooms carved into a hillside. These are called cave homes. They stay cool in the summer and warm in the winter. The family was extremely nice. Many of us bought some crafts that they had for sale. I bought a handmade wall hanging that is done in the shape of Chinese zodiac symbols. It was very cheap, and I didn't haggle over the price. It just seemed to be the right thing to do for invading someone's home. This very beautiful piece cost me the equivalent of $3. It's one of my favorite things bought on the trip.
Last official stop of the day finally came, the Terra Cotta Soldiers and Horses Museum. This is another World Heritage Site, and it is easily seen why. This place was amazing! This is the terra cotta army ordered built by China's first emperor Qin Shihuang to protect and serve him in the afterlife. It was very busy in there, but just amazing to see. I bought a book signed by one of the farmers who had discovered the site back in 1974. Books are cheap in China as they are subsidized by the government in order to make reading accessible to more people. I love it here!!!! We were given plenty of free time to move through the museum at our own pace. This was definitely a highlight of the trip.
After our ride back to the city, we had the choice of going back to the hotel or going to the Muslim Quarter for shopping and dinner. I chose to go into the city. After a free day of not doing much in Shanghai, I wasn't going to let any more opportunities pass me by. Cindy and I struck out on our own, meandering through the stalls of the Muslim Quarter. I did a lot of my souvenir shopping tonight! The prices were fantastic, the bargaining was fun, and it was just a good time! We tried our best to find an authentic Chinese restaurant to eat it, but they were all packed since it was a Saturday night. We settled on a less busy Chinese restaurant, McDonald's. The food looked different - my Big Mac was a different color, seriously - but it tasted SOOO good!! Great choice!
Upon returning to the hotel, we decided that our feet had been mistreated far too long, so it was time to search out a foot massage. Our hotel didn't offer them, so we decided to hit the front desk and ask where the closest place was. We ran into David on the elevator and convinced him to go with us. It was across the street, and cost us 100 yuan for 70 minutes. Let me tell you - that was the best $15 dollars ever spent. It was pure bliss. I may have to go again tomorrow! Needless to say, a very relaxed Micky fell peacefully into bed that night. Best day yet!
Location: Titan Times Hotel, Xi'an
Tooth Update: Tooth is wondering if tooth massages are available in China...
Weather Update: Glorious. Slight falling rain periodically. Lower temperatures than normal and great breezes. Heavenly, in a word.
Friday, June 25
Today started EARLY! I got up at 4:00 to get ready to leave to catch a flight to Xi'an, one of China's ancient capitals and the site of the famous Terra Cotta Army of Emperor Qin Shi Huangdi. We had a boxed breakfast on the bus because we left the hotel too early to eat breakfast there. It was an interesting breakfast! I had a ham and cheese sandwich, a croissant, and a banana. I didn't drink the warm soymilk or eat the boiled egg. Best of all, it came in a reusable shopping bag! Woo hoo!
It took a while to get us all checked in, but I did have time to check my internet for free in the airport (best part about Chinese airports). I can't say that I am upset to be leaving Shanghai. It was busy and hectic, and for a person like me who gets anxious around crowds, a bit of a nightmare. I was definitely looking forward to arriving in Xi'an.
When we landed in Xi'an we were met with a different kind of weather - hot and dry, rather than the hot and humid that we had been experiencing. We met our city guide Rose who told us that the temperature yesterday had been around 100 degrees Fahrenheit. Today they were expecting rain, so the temperature was much lower.
We were able to check into our hotel early because we had to change into our professional attire for our school visit in the afternoon. First though was lunch - another big banquet affair. I am telling you, a mountain of food is placed on our table at every meal, and we never eat it all. It's pretty wasteful, and I feel badly about it, but there is nothing that I can do to remedy the situation except eat more, and I am definitely not doing that. We did have some really good pickled melon today that was out of this world!
Our school visit was at the Bodi International School, a private boarding school in Xi'an. We were first given an introduction to the school, and then divided into two groups. I luckily got in the group that visited the art and music classes. The first class was a class of girls who were learning to play the chang, a stringed instrument. The second class was my favorite! It was a group of boys who were learning to play the erhu. This is a traditional two-stringed instrument played with a bow. It has a very pretty melodic sound, and it was fun to see the boys learning it. Our next class was a painting class. The teacher came back and taught us how to paint a fish. Mine were disastrous, but it was still fun! Probably the most interesting thing about the school visit was talking to students who told us that students had volunteered to go to classes that we were observing, and that they were just wearing their uniforms for our visit. Hmm! It was kind of funny!
After the school visit, we paid a visit to the Ancient City Wall. Xi'an's city wall dates to the Ming Dynasty, roughly around 1300 AD. It is supposedly the most complete city wall to be found in China, and I believe it! It fully surrounds the central "Old City" of Xi'an. We climbed to the top of the wall and were able to walk around a bit. This place was huge!!! It's roughly 8.5 miles to do a complete loop on top. Needless to say, I didn't do one! Besides, we only had about 20 minutes!
Next stop was a street market, where I felt completely in the way. This definitely wasn't a tourist stop - it's where the Chinese shop. We got a lot of interesting stares! Luckily we weren't there long, and we headed to the evening's highlight - a dinner show. These can be EXTREMELY cheesy, but this was actually great! Xi'an is known for its dumplings - jiaozi in Mandarin Chinese - and they were amazing!! Dad, you would have loved these! These are Chinese gyoza! We had around 20 different types, and they were amazing. Best meal in China so far. There simply aren't enough words to describe how amazing this was. The meal was followed by a Tang Dynasty singing and dancing show, which was surprisingly really good! But, by this point, many of us were dragging - we had been up way too long and it was nearing 9:30. We're such party animals, I know. It was so nice to get back onto the bus and come back to the extra plush surroundings of our hotel - and I do mean plush. We have a sitting room that features a purple velour couch. If that isn't plush, I don't know what is! Sleep came VERY easy tonight!
Location: Titan Times Hotel, Xi'an
Tooth Update: Just hurts when flying.
Weather Update: Dry and hot. We brought some rain with us, which hasn't been a problem. Just sprinkles!
This has been my favorite day of the trip so far. I think I may move to Xi'an if tomorrow is anything like this. I am not kidding - this place is amazing. People who come to China without visiting Xi'an need to have their heads examined.
We started our day at 8:30. My stomach was upset this morning, and I was worried about it affecting the other parts of my day, so I had a very light breakfast and a couple Pepto Bismol tablets. It was tasty and refreshing! Our first stop was the Big Wild Goose Pagoda. It was originally built during the Tang Dynasty, around 652 AD. It was very peaceful, and there was a light rain falling, which just added to the atmosphere. It was nice to be able to walk around and check out the many structures inside the temple. It was a thousand times more peaceful than the Jade Buddha Temple that we visited in Shanghai.
As much fun as the Big Wild Goose Pagoda was, I couldn't wait to get on the road to our final destination of the day - the Terra Cotta Army. But, there were many side trips along the way. First we had to visit another factory. This one made reproductions of the terra cotta soldiers. Honestly, these factory visits are getting out of hand. I refuse to believe that a factory consists of four ladies working by themselves. Where's the sweat shop? It's really just a lead in for the multitude of shopping experiences at the end of the "factory tour." Many of us ended up on the bus early in a bit of silent protest! Mom, I was one of them! Can you believe I got out of there without buying anything?!?! Amazing!!
Lunch was next. This was interesting, to say the least. Right outside the restaurant was a replica of the Great Pyramid in Egypt with the Sphinx right beside it. The draw of this lunch was that we were going to have a noodle making performance. Pretty cool! WRONG. That lasted approximately 30 seconds, after which they gave a sales pitch for the noodles - 3 yuan a bowl. Seriously? Anyway, I didn't get any noodles because there was more than enough food on the table. After that we visited a Chinese family's home. This was definitely not a tourist stop. This family has a house and then behind it, rooms carved into a hillside. These are called cave homes. They stay cool in the summer and warm in the winter. The family was extremely nice. Many of us bought some crafts that they had for sale. I bought a handmade wall hanging that is done in the shape of Chinese zodiac symbols. It was very cheap, and I didn't haggle over the price. It just seemed to be the right thing to do for invading someone's home. This very beautiful piece cost me the equivalent of $3. It's one of my favorite things bought on the trip.
Last official stop of the day finally came, the Terra Cotta Soldiers and Horses Museum. This is another World Heritage Site, and it is easily seen why. This place was amazing! This is the terra cotta army ordered built by China's first emperor Qin Shihuang to protect and serve him in the afterlife. It was very busy in there, but just amazing to see. I bought a book signed by one of the farmers who had discovered the site back in 1974. Books are cheap in China as they are subsidized by the government in order to make reading accessible to more people. I love it here!!!! We were given plenty of free time to move through the museum at our own pace. This was definitely a highlight of the trip.
After our ride back to the city, we had the choice of going back to the hotel or going to the Muslim Quarter for shopping and dinner. I chose to go into the city. After a free day of not doing much in Shanghai, I wasn't going to let any more opportunities pass me by. Cindy and I struck out on our own, meandering through the stalls of the Muslim Quarter. I did a lot of my souvenir shopping tonight! The prices were fantastic, the bargaining was fun, and it was just a good time! We tried our best to find an authentic Chinese restaurant to eat it, but they were all packed since it was a Saturday night. We settled on a less busy Chinese restaurant, McDonald's. The food looked different - my Big Mac was a different color, seriously - but it tasted SOOO good!! Great choice!
Upon returning to the hotel, we decided that our feet had been mistreated far too long, so it was time to search out a foot massage. Our hotel didn't offer them, so we decided to hit the front desk and ask where the closest place was. We ran into David on the elevator and convinced him to go with us. It was across the street, and cost us 100 yuan for 70 minutes. Let me tell you - that was the best $15 dollars ever spent. It was pure bliss. I may have to go again tomorrow! Needless to say, a very relaxed Micky fell peacefully into bed that night. Best day yet!
Location: Titan Times Hotel, Xi'an
Tooth Update: Tooth is wondering if tooth massages are available in China...
Weather Update: Glorious. Slight falling rain periodically. Lower temperatures than normal and great breezes. Heavenly, in a word.
Friday, June 25
Today started EARLY! I got up at 4:00 to get ready to leave to catch a flight to Xi'an, one of China's ancient capitals and the site of the famous Terra Cotta Army of Emperor Qin Shi Huangdi. We had a boxed breakfast on the bus because we left the hotel too early to eat breakfast there. It was an interesting breakfast! I had a ham and cheese sandwich, a croissant, and a banana. I didn't drink the warm soymilk or eat the boiled egg. Best of all, it came in a reusable shopping bag! Woo hoo!
It took a while to get us all checked in, but I did have time to check my internet for free in the airport (best part about Chinese airports). I can't say that I am upset to be leaving Shanghai. It was busy and hectic, and for a person like me who gets anxious around crowds, a bit of a nightmare. I was definitely looking forward to arriving in Xi'an.
When we landed in Xi'an we were met with a different kind of weather - hot and dry, rather than the hot and humid that we had been experiencing. We met our city guide Rose who told us that the temperature yesterday had been around 100 degrees Fahrenheit. Today they were expecting rain, so the temperature was much lower.
We were able to check into our hotel early because we had to change into our professional attire for our school visit in the afternoon. First though was lunch - another big banquet affair. I am telling you, a mountain of food is placed on our table at every meal, and we never eat it all. It's pretty wasteful, and I feel badly about it, but there is nothing that I can do to remedy the situation except eat more, and I am definitely not doing that. We did have some really good pickled melon today that was out of this world!
Our school visit was at the Bodi International School, a private boarding school in Xi'an. We were first given an introduction to the school, and then divided into two groups. I luckily got in the group that visited the art and music classes. The first class was a class of girls who were learning to play the chang, a stringed instrument. The second class was my favorite! It was a group of boys who were learning to play the erhu. This is a traditional two-stringed instrument played with a bow. It has a very pretty melodic sound, and it was fun to see the boys learning it. Our next class was a painting class. The teacher came back and taught us how to paint a fish. Mine were disastrous, but it was still fun! Probably the most interesting thing about the school visit was talking to students who told us that students had volunteered to go to classes that we were observing, and that they were just wearing their uniforms for our visit. Hmm! It was kind of funny!
After the school visit, we paid a visit to the Ancient City Wall. Xi'an's city wall dates to the Ming Dynasty, roughly around 1300 AD. It is supposedly the most complete city wall to be found in China, and I believe it! It fully surrounds the central "Old City" of Xi'an. We climbed to the top of the wall and were able to walk around a bit. This place was huge!!! It's roughly 8.5 miles to do a complete loop on top. Needless to say, I didn't do one! Besides, we only had about 20 minutes!
Next stop was a street market, where I felt completely in the way. This definitely wasn't a tourist stop - it's where the Chinese shop. We got a lot of interesting stares! Luckily we weren't there long, and we headed to the evening's highlight - a dinner show. These can be EXTREMELY cheesy, but this was actually great! Xi'an is known for its dumplings - jiaozi in Mandarin Chinese - and they were amazing!! Dad, you would have loved these! These are Chinese gyoza! We had around 20 different types, and they were amazing. Best meal in China so far. There simply aren't enough words to describe how amazing this was. The meal was followed by a Tang Dynasty singing and dancing show, which was surprisingly really good! But, by this point, many of us were dragging - we had been up way too long and it was nearing 9:30. We're such party animals, I know. It was so nice to get back onto the bus and come back to the extra plush surroundings of our hotel - and I do mean plush. We have a sitting room that features a purple velour couch. If that isn't plush, I don't know what is! Sleep came VERY easy tonight!
Location: Titan Times Hotel, Xi'an
Tooth Update: Just hurts when flying.
Weather Update: Dry and hot. We brought some rain with us, which hasn't been a problem. Just sprinkles!
Thursday, June 24, 2010
Shanghai'ed and Other Stories
Thursday, June 24
Today was our free day in Shanghai. Since one of my two items on my free day list was crossed off on Tuesday, I only had one destination to really hit today, and that was the Propaganda Poster Art Center. After a morning of sleeping in late and a later breakfast, we headed out to the French Concession. This required the use of a cab, my first such experience in China! Of course the cabbie didn't speak English (not that I expected him to), so we pretty much had to trust that he would get us there with no issues. Which, he did! As long as you ignore the fact that he tried to mow down a street full of people. You just have to love the Chinese and their driving! My alarm clock this morning was actually the honks of cars outside on the street!
The poster museum was hard to find, but so worth it. It was in the basement of an apartment building. It was definitely confusing. There were posters from the 1940s to the 1970s, and you really got an idea of the brainwashing that was taking place. It was interesting to see the United States depicted as a soldier with green skin and talons for fingers. What I was really surprised to see was a poster asking the Chinese to support the civil rights movement in the U.S. in the 60s. I had hoped to buy a copy of that poster, but unfortunately they didn't have it for sale in the gift shop. I did pick up a copy of one poster for a cool $15. It will be a nice addition to the classroom.
After the museum several of us decided to head back to the hotel because of a light falling rain that we were afraid would ruin our posters. After a short rest, Mona, Jennifer and I went over to Nanjing Road to grab some lunch and to look around a bit. We even found a Dunkin Donuts where we sat for a while and just enjoyed a relaxed pace instead of our usual frantic one. We have an early morning tomorrow, so we all turned in early to get our bags packed and get some sleep. That 5:00 meeting time is going to come awful early in the morning. Tomorrow it is off to Xi'an!
Location: The Bund Riverside Hotel, Shanghai
Tooth Update: Still no issues. That's a good thing!
Weather Update: Slight rain, but nice low temperatures. Good day overall!
Wednesday, June 23
Today we headed off to a once in a lifetime event - the 2010 World Expo. The World Expo is essentially the world's fair, without the deep fried Oreos, Spandex, and mullets. We were dropped off at the MASSIVE site, at one of the eight gates where busses were allowed to park. I had no idea how many people I would be running into over the course of the day, but if the parking lot was any indicator at all, it would be a few hundred thousand.
We got to the Expo site at 10:00, and we were told that if we wanted to take the bus back to meet at 6:00. Not really knowing what would be in store for me, I didn't know if eight hours was going to be enough, or was going to be too much. I paired up with Amy and we set out with a common goal - just do whatever hits us!
The World Expo has pavilions from many countries around the world. Each country uses the Expo as a showcase for itself, and how it is fitting in with the Expo's main theme of "Better City, Better World." Amy and I decided that we would just go to the pavilions with little to no line. Some pavilions such as Saudi Arabia and Japan had wait lines of up to five hours! So, needless to say, we didn't see the most popular pavilions, but it was still nice. The Chinese did an excellent job with the logistics of the event, from having many benches available, fan misters for cooling, and bathrooms that gave you the choice of squat toilets or REAL toilets! Score!
When we got back on the bus, our guide Tony told us that the temperature at noon was 95 degrees, and that at 4:00 the estimated crowd was 370,000. There was a lot of pushing and shoving (pretty much the only thing about the Chinese that has been making me crazy - that, and I keep having my picture taken). It was a long day, and my feet were killing me by the time we made it back to the hotel. It was nice to be able to sit down, put my feet up, and relax!
Location: The Bund Riverside Hotel, Shanghai
Tooth Update: No issues!
Weather Update: As stated, hot. But not too humid, so not killer!
Tuesday, June 22
Well, today we arrived in Shanghai, and the first impression? Crowded. Really really crowded. Shanghai is a relatively small city with a massive population - at least 17 million people, though unofficial counts right now put the number at around 25 million people. Add to that the massive amount of people here for the World Expo, plus the fact that Shanghai is a major banking and business center for Asia, and you have a LOT of people in one location. If you know anything about me, you know that crowds make me crazy (crazier?). Shanghai is going to be a sheer feat of strength for me to get through.
We were originally scheduled to visit another garden this morning, but for whatever reason, we didn't. Instead we visited a Buddhist temple. It of course was packed, but it was still possible to view the beauty of the place. I did get upset at the temple though. It was overrun with tourists, and you have to remember that this is a temple, an active place of worship. People were coming in trying to pray and here we were (as well as a bunch of other people) just standing around listening to guides tell us about each room. It really disturbed me to think that I was interfering with someone who was trying to follow their beliefs. Maybe I was just being compassionate. Maybe the crowds were just overwhelming me. I don't know. The statues inside were amazing though, especially the Buddha carved out of a single piece to white jade (white jade is the rarest - and most expensive - of all).
After the tour, we had tea at a tea house inside the temple. There were 10 different types of tea to try. All of the teas here were medicinal teas. Each one targeted a specific area of the body. For example, there was one to help with arthritis. One to give you energy. One to help with headaches. Most of them were really tasty. It was nice to be able to sample so many different teas, and I have to admit that they were gorgeous in the glasses.
After the teas we went to lunch in this weird Chinese-Thai fusion place. It was truly bizarre. The food was good, but what was really strange was the stage show. Some of the Chinese workers got up in Thai traditional costumes and danced. The place was so touristy! It honestly felt like being in a second-rate Epcot pavilion. But, lunch was definitely needed for the next stop of our tour, which was a whirlwind trip through the Shanghai Museum. This museum is definitely world class. It covers Chinese history, and that is a lot to cover. Thousands of years of artifacts are contained within the walls of the museum, and I spent my time trying to get a quick look at everything inside. Chinese furniture, jade, bronze sculptures...all kinds of stuff. It was really interesting and I wish that I had more time to go through it. Oh well. Guess I will just have to hit that up on the next trip!
Our next stop was in the former French Concession. This was the part of Shanghai given over to the control of the French after the Opium Wars and the Treaty of Nanjing. We toured the museum that covered the creation of the Communist Party in Shanghai. This was a place that I had actually listed as something to do on my free day, so I am kind of glad that I was able to have the chance to tour it today so that I have time to do other things on the free day. It would have been nice to spend more time here as I felt a little rushed, but that tends to happen when you travel in groups - I am definitely not complaining, just stating a fact.
The next stop was just annoying - that's a complaint. We got dropped off on Nanjing Road, which is the major shopping street in Shanghai. You know, if you wanted to go to Cartier or buy a Rolex, this was the area for you. I'm getting kind of tired of all of the shopping time. Mona and I decided to just cross the street over to the Bund, the embankment of the Huangpo River, and just have a seat. Again, it was packed. You would be shocked at all of the stares that we get as Americans. I have had my picture taken so many times that it is starting to get ridiculous. Sitting at the Bund was no different. It was a relief to get back on the bus and head to the restaurant for dinner.
After dinner we got tied up on the pier waiting for our boat cruise on the Huangpo River. This place was PACKED!!! Luckily once on board the boat some of us were able to score some deckside seats. The weather was fantastic! The smog, unfortunately, was pretty horrible. Since we're now getting into the huge cities, smog is going to be more and more of a problem. It was hard to get good nighttime shots of the skyline due to the smog, but I did try! There we also had people taking our pictures. One lady got about three feet away from me (if that) and stuck her camera in my face and I had to tell her "no" repeatedly. It definitely isn't fun when you're the animal having your picture taken. It just felt really weird! People would get arrested for that kind of behavior in the States! After the boat docked we finally got to check into our hotel. It was another long day, and one that left me kind of agitated, but hey, I'm still in China. No reason to get too upset!
Location: The Bund Riverside Hotel, Shanghai
Tooth Update: Better today.
Weather Update: Gorgeous day, but smoggy!
Today was our free day in Shanghai. Since one of my two items on my free day list was crossed off on Tuesday, I only had one destination to really hit today, and that was the Propaganda Poster Art Center. After a morning of sleeping in late and a later breakfast, we headed out to the French Concession. This required the use of a cab, my first such experience in China! Of course the cabbie didn't speak English (not that I expected him to), so we pretty much had to trust that he would get us there with no issues. Which, he did! As long as you ignore the fact that he tried to mow down a street full of people. You just have to love the Chinese and their driving! My alarm clock this morning was actually the honks of cars outside on the street!
The poster museum was hard to find, but so worth it. It was in the basement of an apartment building. It was definitely confusing. There were posters from the 1940s to the 1970s, and you really got an idea of the brainwashing that was taking place. It was interesting to see the United States depicted as a soldier with green skin and talons for fingers. What I was really surprised to see was a poster asking the Chinese to support the civil rights movement in the U.S. in the 60s. I had hoped to buy a copy of that poster, but unfortunately they didn't have it for sale in the gift shop. I did pick up a copy of one poster for a cool $15. It will be a nice addition to the classroom.
After the museum several of us decided to head back to the hotel because of a light falling rain that we were afraid would ruin our posters. After a short rest, Mona, Jennifer and I went over to Nanjing Road to grab some lunch and to look around a bit. We even found a Dunkin Donuts where we sat for a while and just enjoyed a relaxed pace instead of our usual frantic one. We have an early morning tomorrow, so we all turned in early to get our bags packed and get some sleep. That 5:00 meeting time is going to come awful early in the morning. Tomorrow it is off to Xi'an!
Location: The Bund Riverside Hotel, Shanghai
Tooth Update: Still no issues. That's a good thing!
Weather Update: Slight rain, but nice low temperatures. Good day overall!
Wednesday, June 23
Today we headed off to a once in a lifetime event - the 2010 World Expo. The World Expo is essentially the world's fair, without the deep fried Oreos, Spandex, and mullets. We were dropped off at the MASSIVE site, at one of the eight gates where busses were allowed to park. I had no idea how many people I would be running into over the course of the day, but if the parking lot was any indicator at all, it would be a few hundred thousand.
We got to the Expo site at 10:00, and we were told that if we wanted to take the bus back to meet at 6:00. Not really knowing what would be in store for me, I didn't know if eight hours was going to be enough, or was going to be too much. I paired up with Amy and we set out with a common goal - just do whatever hits us!
The World Expo has pavilions from many countries around the world. Each country uses the Expo as a showcase for itself, and how it is fitting in with the Expo's main theme of "Better City, Better World." Amy and I decided that we would just go to the pavilions with little to no line. Some pavilions such as Saudi Arabia and Japan had wait lines of up to five hours! So, needless to say, we didn't see the most popular pavilions, but it was still nice. The Chinese did an excellent job with the logistics of the event, from having many benches available, fan misters for cooling, and bathrooms that gave you the choice of squat toilets or REAL toilets! Score!
When we got back on the bus, our guide Tony told us that the temperature at noon was 95 degrees, and that at 4:00 the estimated crowd was 370,000. There was a lot of pushing and shoving (pretty much the only thing about the Chinese that has been making me crazy - that, and I keep having my picture taken). It was a long day, and my feet were killing me by the time we made it back to the hotel. It was nice to be able to sit down, put my feet up, and relax!
Location: The Bund Riverside Hotel, Shanghai
Tooth Update: No issues!
Weather Update: As stated, hot. But not too humid, so not killer!
Tuesday, June 22
Well, today we arrived in Shanghai, and the first impression? Crowded. Really really crowded. Shanghai is a relatively small city with a massive population - at least 17 million people, though unofficial counts right now put the number at around 25 million people. Add to that the massive amount of people here for the World Expo, plus the fact that Shanghai is a major banking and business center for Asia, and you have a LOT of people in one location. If you know anything about me, you know that crowds make me crazy (crazier?). Shanghai is going to be a sheer feat of strength for me to get through.
We were originally scheduled to visit another garden this morning, but for whatever reason, we didn't. Instead we visited a Buddhist temple. It of course was packed, but it was still possible to view the beauty of the place. I did get upset at the temple though. It was overrun with tourists, and you have to remember that this is a temple, an active place of worship. People were coming in trying to pray and here we were (as well as a bunch of other people) just standing around listening to guides tell us about each room. It really disturbed me to think that I was interfering with someone who was trying to follow their beliefs. Maybe I was just being compassionate. Maybe the crowds were just overwhelming me. I don't know. The statues inside were amazing though, especially the Buddha carved out of a single piece to white jade (white jade is the rarest - and most expensive - of all).
After the tour, we had tea at a tea house inside the temple. There were 10 different types of tea to try. All of the teas here were medicinal teas. Each one targeted a specific area of the body. For example, there was one to help with arthritis. One to give you energy. One to help with headaches. Most of them were really tasty. It was nice to be able to sample so many different teas, and I have to admit that they were gorgeous in the glasses.
After the teas we went to lunch in this weird Chinese-Thai fusion place. It was truly bizarre. The food was good, but what was really strange was the stage show. Some of the Chinese workers got up in Thai traditional costumes and danced. The place was so touristy! It honestly felt like being in a second-rate Epcot pavilion. But, lunch was definitely needed for the next stop of our tour, which was a whirlwind trip through the Shanghai Museum. This museum is definitely world class. It covers Chinese history, and that is a lot to cover. Thousands of years of artifacts are contained within the walls of the museum, and I spent my time trying to get a quick look at everything inside. Chinese furniture, jade, bronze sculptures...all kinds of stuff. It was really interesting and I wish that I had more time to go through it. Oh well. Guess I will just have to hit that up on the next trip!
Our next stop was in the former French Concession. This was the part of Shanghai given over to the control of the French after the Opium Wars and the Treaty of Nanjing. We toured the museum that covered the creation of the Communist Party in Shanghai. This was a place that I had actually listed as something to do on my free day, so I am kind of glad that I was able to have the chance to tour it today so that I have time to do other things on the free day. It would have been nice to spend more time here as I felt a little rushed, but that tends to happen when you travel in groups - I am definitely not complaining, just stating a fact.
The next stop was just annoying - that's a complaint. We got dropped off on Nanjing Road, which is the major shopping street in Shanghai. You know, if you wanted to go to Cartier or buy a Rolex, this was the area for you. I'm getting kind of tired of all of the shopping time. Mona and I decided to just cross the street over to the Bund, the embankment of the Huangpo River, and just have a seat. Again, it was packed. You would be shocked at all of the stares that we get as Americans. I have had my picture taken so many times that it is starting to get ridiculous. Sitting at the Bund was no different. It was a relief to get back on the bus and head to the restaurant for dinner.
After dinner we got tied up on the pier waiting for our boat cruise on the Huangpo River. This place was PACKED!!! Luckily once on board the boat some of us were able to score some deckside seats. The weather was fantastic! The smog, unfortunately, was pretty horrible. Since we're now getting into the huge cities, smog is going to be more and more of a problem. It was hard to get good nighttime shots of the skyline due to the smog, but I did try! There we also had people taking our pictures. One lady got about three feet away from me (if that) and stuck her camera in my face and I had to tell her "no" repeatedly. It definitely isn't fun when you're the animal having your picture taken. It just felt really weird! People would get arrested for that kind of behavior in the States! After the boat docked we finally got to check into our hotel. It was another long day, and one that left me kind of agitated, but hey, I'm still in China. No reason to get too upset!
Location: The Bund Riverside Hotel, Shanghai
Tooth Update: Better today.
Weather Update: Gorgeous day, but smoggy!
Monday, June 21, 2010
Shopping in Suzhou
Today was spent going from site to site in Suzhou, the so-called "Venice of the East." Our day started at the Lingering Garden, a very famous classical garden. It's a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and it was truly gorgeous. The garden dates back to around 1600. The garden is divided into four distinctly themed sections: East, Central, West, and North. There were a couple of gingko trees that were over 300 years old!
Our guide Jessica then took us to a silk factory. We learned all kinds of things about silk production from her, from the growth of the silk worm to the cocoon, to the eating of the pupa (believed to promote strength in men and beauty in women). I even volunteered to eat a silk worm pupa! It was kind of nasty - tasted fishy with a popping outside shell and a squishy center. It was WAY too much like eating a bean to be enjoyable. Probably the funniest moment was when we were ushered into a "Silk Fashion Show" where the first song played was Michael Jackson's "Heal the World." I admit to laughing out loud. The silk factory was cool, but definitely a marketing extravaganza. Our lunch was even at the silk factory. The most interesting thing about that place was that they had the snake wine, where snakes are infused into rice wine or grain alcohol. I swear to you that I even saw a jar with a turtle in it. Some of the guys had tried it on a previous night and said it tasted horrible, and Cindy said the stuff was called "Death" so before you ask, no, I didn't try any!
The next stop was very brief. We went to a teahouse where we drank - you guessed it - tea and listened to Suzhou opera. You might recognize the style from some music played in Chinese restaurants. After the tea break, we had a paddleboat tour of one of the canals. It took us through some neighborhoods and we were able to see how some regular people in Suzhou live - hanging clothes out to dry, the beautiful plants growing on steps leading down to the canal - but I will also tell you that the area seemed really poor by our standards in the US.
We then visited an embroidery institute. Suzhou is famous for it sembroidery, especially its double sided embroidery where the picture can be seen on both sides of the material. It was gorgeous stuff, but EXTREMELY expensive. Had I had several thousand dollars just lying around I would have bought something, but I didn't, so I am coming home empty handed!
We then got dropped off at Guan Qain Street for some shopping. SOme of us were shopped out though, and felt that it was in our best interests to look for dinner. Since we were on our own for dinner tonight, we got to pick, and we chose - PIZZA HUT!!! Let me tell you, this was the most amazing Pizza Hut I have ever been in. This Pizza Hut served steak, escargot, slushies...it was off the charts. I got this really good rose lychee frozen drink. We then kind of ambled around for a while until it was time to hop back onto the bus and go back to the amazing hotel that are living in for one last night.
Location: Gusu Jinjiang Hotel, Suzhou
Tooth Update: A little sore today. Just some pressure. It may be time to start the antibiotics again.
Weather Update: Absolutely GLORIOUS! Sunny, breezy, and just amazing.
Our guide Jessica then took us to a silk factory. We learned all kinds of things about silk production from her, from the growth of the silk worm to the cocoon, to the eating of the pupa (believed to promote strength in men and beauty in women). I even volunteered to eat a silk worm pupa! It was kind of nasty - tasted fishy with a popping outside shell and a squishy center. It was WAY too much like eating a bean to be enjoyable. Probably the funniest moment was when we were ushered into a "Silk Fashion Show" where the first song played was Michael Jackson's "Heal the World." I admit to laughing out loud. The silk factory was cool, but definitely a marketing extravaganza. Our lunch was even at the silk factory. The most interesting thing about that place was that they had the snake wine, where snakes are infused into rice wine or grain alcohol. I swear to you that I even saw a jar with a turtle in it. Some of the guys had tried it on a previous night and said it tasted horrible, and Cindy said the stuff was called "Death" so before you ask, no, I didn't try any!
The next stop was very brief. We went to a teahouse where we drank - you guessed it - tea and listened to Suzhou opera. You might recognize the style from some music played in Chinese restaurants. After the tea break, we had a paddleboat tour of one of the canals. It took us through some neighborhoods and we were able to see how some regular people in Suzhou live - hanging clothes out to dry, the beautiful plants growing on steps leading down to the canal - but I will also tell you that the area seemed really poor by our standards in the US.
We then visited an embroidery institute. Suzhou is famous for it sembroidery, especially its double sided embroidery where the picture can be seen on both sides of the material. It was gorgeous stuff, but EXTREMELY expensive. Had I had several thousand dollars just lying around I would have bought something, but I didn't, so I am coming home empty handed!
We then got dropped off at Guan Qain Street for some shopping. SOme of us were shopped out though, and felt that it was in our best interests to look for dinner. Since we were on our own for dinner tonight, we got to pick, and we chose - PIZZA HUT!!! Let me tell you, this was the most amazing Pizza Hut I have ever been in. This Pizza Hut served steak, escargot, slushies...it was off the charts. I got this really good rose lychee frozen drink. We then kind of ambled around for a while until it was time to hop back onto the bus and go back to the amazing hotel that are living in for one last night.
Location: Gusu Jinjiang Hotel, Suzhou
Tooth Update: A little sore today. Just some pressure. It may be time to start the antibiotics again.
Weather Update: Absolutely GLORIOUS! Sunny, breezy, and just amazing.
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